A novel approach for the description of both wave propagation and flow circulation in the nearshore zone has been defined. This is based on an integro-differential system which, at the leading-order, coincides with classical depth-averaged models (e.g. Boussinesq-type models) and, in addition, describes flow deviations from the depth-averaged values. Thanks to this feature, the proposed system enables exact calculation of the linear dispersion relation, of the linear shoaling coefficient and of second-order nonlinear solutions for monochromatic waves. The general approach, which can be exploited to obtain a family of models, has clear computational advantages over those which solve the flow over the vertical and improves the flow description accuracy of typical depth-averaged models.

RITMARE - SP3_WP4_AZ3_UO08_D01 - Beyond Boussinesq-type equations: Semi-Integrated models for coastal dynamics

Matteo Antuono;Claudio Lugni;
2013

Abstract

A novel approach for the description of both wave propagation and flow circulation in the nearshore zone has been defined. This is based on an integro-differential system which, at the leading-order, coincides with classical depth-averaged models (e.g. Boussinesq-type models) and, in addition, describes flow deviations from the depth-averaged values. Thanks to this feature, the proposed system enables exact calculation of the linear dispersion relation, of the linear shoaling coefficient and of second-order nonlinear solutions for monochromatic waves. The general approach, which can be exploited to obtain a family of models, has clear computational advantages over those which solve the flow over the vertical and improves the flow description accuracy of typical depth-averaged models.
2013
Istituto di iNgegneria del Mare - INM (ex INSEAN)
Coastal Dynamics
Gravity waves
Wave Propagation
Wave modelling
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Utilizza questo identificativo per citare o creare un link a questo documento: https://hdl.handle.net/20.500.14243/316287
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