Wind-wave conditions and geomorphological change at the beach-dune barrier of Cesine Lagoon (South Italy) - Preprint

Several coastal barriers experienced significant erosion and change in shape throughout the Mediterranean coasts over the past decades, and the issue has become of increasing concern for scientists and policymakers. With reference to a case study and by meteorological and geomorphological investigations, this note aims to infer recent shoreline dynamics and define coastal phenomena shaping the beach-dune barrier of Cesine Lagoon (South Italy), to finally point out the weather-driven processes. A challenge for this research was to obtain significant results from publicly available sources and simple and inexpensive methods. The retreat of the dune toe, the accretion of washover fans, and the formation of gravel beaches have been related to the analyzed wind-wave conditions. Net longshore transport was found in accordance with the direction of the more intense winds. The role of extreme events in the shaping of coastal landforms is yet to be established even if they greatly increase the vulnerability to flooding of the study area. The results achieved so far are starting points for further data collection and analysis in the perspective of assessing the impact of climate changes on the lagoon barrier.