Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) was studied as an alternative qualitative method to identify different textile animal hair fibres. Differentiation of speciality or luxury fibres (such as cashmere) from other animal cheaper fibres (such as sheep's wool or yak) is essential to repress adulteration of textile products. Moreover, DSC analysis can be used to distinguish fibres of different types and affected by industrial textile treatments like bleaching, steaming, descaling and stretching. Cashmere, wool, yak and goat fibres were analysed by DSC and their traces were compared. The traces were mathematically elaborated to establish criteria for fibres identification. These criteria were applied to study changes in the fibre traces due to industrial treatment. Differences in the DSC traces are evident from cashmere, yak, wool and goat due to differences in transition enthalpy and temperature of the crystalline material that constitutes the ortho- and para-cortex of animal hairs. Furthermore, it is possible to see changes in traces of the same fibres subjected to different treatments.

Differential scanning calorimetry for the identification of animal hair fibres

Tonetti C;Varesano A;Vineis C;Mazzuchetti G
2015

Abstract

Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) was studied as an alternative qualitative method to identify different textile animal hair fibres. Differentiation of speciality or luxury fibres (such as cashmere) from other animal cheaper fibres (such as sheep's wool or yak) is essential to repress adulteration of textile products. Moreover, DSC analysis can be used to distinguish fibres of different types and affected by industrial textile treatments like bleaching, steaming, descaling and stretching. Cashmere, wool, yak and goat fibres were analysed by DSC and their traces were compared. The traces were mathematically elaborated to establish criteria for fibres identification. These criteria were applied to study changes in the fibre traces due to industrial treatment. Differences in the DSC traces are evident from cashmere, yak, wool and goat due to differences in transition enthalpy and temperature of the crystalline material that constitutes the ortho- and para-cortex of animal hairs. Furthermore, it is possible to see changes in traces of the same fibres subjected to different treatments.
2015
Istituto per lo Studio delle Macromolecole - ISMAC - Sede Milano
Istituto di Sistemi e Tecnologie Industriali Intelligenti per il Manifatturiero Avanzato - STIIMA (ex ITIA)
Animal hair fibres
Protein
Thermal calorimetry
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Utilizza questo identificativo per citare o creare un link a questo documento: https://hdl.handle.net/20.500.14243/306680
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