The directional distribution of the energy of young waves is bimodal for frequencies above twice the peak frequency; i.e., their directional distribution exhibits two peaks in different directions and a minimum between. Here we analyze in detail a typical case measured with a peak frequency f(p) = 0.18 Hz and a wind speed of 10.7 m s(-1) using a stereovideo system. This technique allows for the separation of free waves from the spectrum of the sea-surface elevation. The latter indeed tend to reduce the contrast between the two peaks and the background. The directional distribution for a given wavenumber is nearly symmetric, with the angle distance between the two peaks growing with frequency, reaching 150 degrees at 35 times the peak wavenumber k(p) and increasing up to 45 k(p). When considering only free waves, the lobe ratio, the ratio of oblique peak energy density over energy in the wind direction, increases linearly with the non-dimensional wavenumber k/k(p), up to a value of 6 at k/k(p) similar or equal to 22, and possibly more for shorter components. These observations extend to shorter components' previous measurements, and have important consequences for wave properties sensitive to the directional distribution, such as surface slopes, Stokes drift or microseism sources.

Note on the directional properties of meter-scale gravity waves

Benetazzo Alvise;
2018

Abstract

The directional distribution of the energy of young waves is bimodal for frequencies above twice the peak frequency; i.e., their directional distribution exhibits two peaks in different directions and a minimum between. Here we analyze in detail a typical case measured with a peak frequency f(p) = 0.18 Hz and a wind speed of 10.7 m s(-1) using a stereovideo system. This technique allows for the separation of free waves from the spectrum of the sea-surface elevation. The latter indeed tend to reduce the contrast between the two peaks and the background. The directional distribution for a given wavenumber is nearly symmetric, with the angle distance between the two peaks growing with frequency, reaching 150 degrees at 35 times the peak wavenumber k(p) and increasing up to 45 k(p). When considering only free waves, the lobe ratio, the ratio of oblique peak energy density over energy in the wind direction, increases linearly with the non-dimensional wavenumber k/k(p), up to a value of 6 at k/k(p) similar or equal to 22, and possibly more for shorter components. These observations extend to shorter components' previous measurements, and have important consequences for wave properties sensitive to the directional distribution, such as surface slopes, Stokes drift or microseism sources.
2018
Istituto di Scienze Marine - ISMAR
ocean waves
FETCH-LIMITED WAVES; WIND-WAVES; IMAGE SEQUENCES; STOKES DRIFT; WATER-WAVES; SURFACE; EVOLUTION; SPECTRUM; PERFORMANCE; SEA
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Utilizza questo identificativo per citare o creare un link a questo documento: https://hdl.handle.net/20.500.14243/343025
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