On the extreme value statistics of spatio-temporal maximum sea waves under cyclone winds

Principles of the spatio-temporal statistics are used to investigate the characteristics of short-term/range extreme sea waves and related sea-state parameters under cyclone winds (northern hemisphere). We base our analysis upon consistent stereo-imaging observations of the 3D (2D space + time) sea surface elevation field, and spectral wave model results in the Northwestern Pacific during tropical storm Kong-rey (2018). The focus is on the extreme value analysis of individual maximum sea surface elevations (crest heights) and maximum crest-to-trough wave heights. Results highlight the sea areas around the storm centre where the spatio-temporal highest waves are more likely, and, via scale analysis, the principal mechanisms responsible for the occurrence of extreme conditions in bimodal (composed of wind-sea and swell) and short-crested storm seas. We find that individual waves are the highest to the north-east of the translating cyclone, where sea states are more energetic. However, in the south/south-west of the centre, where opposing wind-sea/swell sea states dominate, directional spread and bound nonlinear interactions are enhanced. In this area, more extreme waves may occur, having the maximum crest and wave heights mean values in excess of 1.3 and 2.1 times the significant wave height, respectively. This set of results provides insights into the role of the dispersive and directional focusing enhanced by nonlinearities up to the second order as an effective mechanism for the formation of extreme waves under cyclone winds. To examine what physical mechanism is behind the generation of extreme waves in different regions around the cyclone, we also explore for comparison areas where nonlinear four-wave interactions are more likely to occur.