Optimization of a sustainable protocol for the extraction of anthocyanins as textile dyes from plant materials

Anthocyanins are the largest group of polyphenolic pigments in the plant kingdom. These non-toxic, water-soluble compounds are responsible for the pink, red, purple, violet, and blue colors of fruits, vegetables, and flowers. Anthocyanins are widely used in the production of food, cosmetic and textile products, in the latter case to replace synthetic dyes with natural and sustainable alternatives. Here, we describe an environmentally benign method for the extraction of anthocyanins from red chicory and their characterization by HPLC-DAD and UPLC-MS. The protocol does not require hazardous solvents or chemicals and relies on a simple and scalable procedure that can be applied to red chicory waste streams for anthocyanin extraction. The extracted anthocyanins were characterized for stability over time and for their textile dyeing properties, achieving good values for washing fastness and, as expected, a pink-to-green color change that is reversible and can therefore be exploited in the fashion industry.