Coastal systems are among the most vulnerable areas on Earth, ceptible to both human and natural threats. They increasingly face rimental effects, such as coastal erosion, exacerbated by a changing mate. Among several drivers of coastal retreat, wave action plays a crucial role, with more energetic waves potentially more disrupting. A method to assess wave-induced erosion threat distribution along coastal sectors over large scales and relevant times (i.e., > 20 yr), at high spatial resolution (i.e., < 100 m) is needed but remains elusive in the absence of high -resolution data. Wave reanalysis products with large spatiotemporal cover, not properly resolve nearshore wave heights which are often negatively biased. The resulting underestimation of wave energy can propagate nested models, causing an underrating of the resulting erosion. In work, we propose a simplified method for the zonation of wave-induced erosion threat along a sandy coast, with large spatiotemporal cover overcoming the limitations due to energy underestimation. Through normalization procedure, long-term low-resolution data are employed zonation inference, without underestimating the results. The outcome is a set of two non-dimensional coefficients evaluated along the shoreline to evaluate its status. They separate over-threatened sections from der-threatened ones, when wave action is the main chronic erosion driver and human intervention is limited. The method is successfully compared with shoreline evolution measurements on a sandy coast over a 25-years period, providing a complementary assessment framework pertinent coastal management, planning and mitigation on useful spatiotemporal scales.

ZONATION OF WAVE-INDUCED EROSION THREAT OF A SANDY SHORELINE IN CENTRAL TUSCANY (ITALY)

Novi L.
Primo
Writing – Original Draft Preparation
;
Raffa F.
Writing – Review & Editing
;
Provenzale A.
Funding Acquisition
;
2022

Abstract

Coastal systems are among the most vulnerable areas on Earth, ceptible to both human and natural threats. They increasingly face rimental effects, such as coastal erosion, exacerbated by a changing mate. Among several drivers of coastal retreat, wave action plays a crucial role, with more energetic waves potentially more disrupting. A method to assess wave-induced erosion threat distribution along coastal sectors over large scales and relevant times (i.e., > 20 yr), at high spatial resolution (i.e., < 100 m) is needed but remains elusive in the absence of high -resolution data. Wave reanalysis products with large spatiotemporal cover, not properly resolve nearshore wave heights which are often negatively biased. The resulting underestimation of wave energy can propagate nested models, causing an underrating of the resulting erosion. In work, we propose a simplified method for the zonation of wave-induced erosion threat along a sandy coast, with large spatiotemporal cover overcoming the limitations due to energy underestimation. Through normalization procedure, long-term low-resolution data are employed zonation inference, without underestimating the results. The outcome is a set of two non-dimensional coefficients evaluated along the shoreline to evaluate its status. They separate over-threatened sections from der-threatened ones, when wave action is the main chronic erosion driver and human intervention is limited. The method is successfully compared with shoreline evolution measurements on a sandy coast over a 25-years period, providing a complementary assessment framework pertinent coastal management, planning and mitigation on useful spatiotemporal scales.
2022
Istituto di Geoscienze e Georisorse - IGG - Sede Pisa
Shoreline monitoring,
Coastal erosion,
Wave energy,
Coastal risk
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Descrizione: Zonation of wave-induced erosion threat of a sandy shoreline in central Tuscany (Italy).
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Utilizza questo identificativo per citare o creare un link a questo documento: https://hdl.handle.net/20.500.14243/532949
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