Le certificazioni ambientali nelle industrie tessili, abbigliamento e pelletteria in Italia

This paper summarizes the main results of the participation of CNR-IRCrES- at the research project MICS-PNRR[1] about the green strategies of the Italian textile industry, in comparison with the clothing and leather industries. The paper shows how the textile, clothing and leather industries implement green strategies through environmental certifications of their organization and products. In general, certified firms have a different economic structure from non-certified firms: the former are bigger (both in term of turnover, employment, exports and imports), have a higher export intensity (export/turnover) and import intensity (import/turnover), better financial ratings. The economic and financial structure also shows differences between the two groups of companies, both in terms of profitability indicators and in the calculation of financial ratings. The paper also studies the greenwashing process implemented with reference to the communication of green strategies related to environmental certification, process that is not widely used by textile companies: very few non-certified companies communicate certification information via their website, less than 2% of the total. From these preliminary results it also seems that within the supply chain the behavior of companies in green strategies through environmental certification is different between companies upstream of the supply chain (B2B) and those of the areas closest to the finished product (B2C).