Why durability is the «litmust test» in assessing environmental impact of luxury items

Durability is emerging as a decisive variable in assessing the environmental impact of luxury fashion items, acting as a «litmus test» for the credibility of sustainability claims. The presentation explores durability as a multidimensional concept (technical, functional, aesthetic, emotional) that directly shapes the real lifespan of fashion products and, consequently, their environmental footprint. Drawing from ISO frameworks and EU legislative drivers (ESPR, DPP, Green Claims Directive), it highlights how durability influences Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) outcomes by redefining the functional unit in terms of how long and how well a product delivers its intended function. Two complementary design pathways are discussed: Design for Durability (DfDu), which extends single-user lifespan through material quality, repairability, and timeless design, and Design for X (DfX), which preserves value across multiple life cycles through reuse, disassembly, and component looping. The talk also identifies open methodological challenges, including the lack of scientific consensus on lifespan modelling, the need for interoperable durability data tracking, and the paradox in which durable items may still fail environmental sustainability if detached from responsible production and consumption models. Ultimately, durability is proposed as the pivotal indicator to align circular design practices, environmental impact assessments, and emerging regulation within the luxury sector.